Monday, October 17, 2011

Style icon: Douglas Fairbanks, Jr.

Belatedly, I learned of the recent auction of the Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. estate. He was the only son of Fairbanks, Sr., who himself was was one of the first Hollywood moguls and founders of the modern film industry. Doyle New York was retained to run the auction on September 13. Below is a selection of Fairbanks, Jr.'s clothing-related items that were sold.

Fairbanks, Jr. owned quite an impressive wardrobe including John Lobb shoes, Maxwell boots, Huntsman jackets and overcoats, Lock hats, Stovel & Mason jackets, among other things.

Lock hats

Maxwell suede derbies

John Lobb semi-brogue

Maxwell riding boots
Huntsman double-breasted overcoat (1970)

Stovel & Mason greatcoat

Huntsman sports coat (1969)

Stovel & Mason sports coat (1973)
I think my favorite piece is the Huntsman overcoat. The auction provided these measurements of the overcoat:
  • Length of shoulders from seam to seam: 19 inches
  • Sleeve length: 24 1/2 inches
  • Shoulder length from seam to collar: 7 inches
  • Length of back: 42 inches
Also, take a closer look at the Stovel & Mason sports coat. Notice anything familiar on the jacket front construction? It has a front dart starting from the chest extending all the way down to the bottom of the hem. Today this is considered a hallmark of Neapolitan tailoring but apparently Savile Row is (or was) no stranger to this practice.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for sharing these pictures!

Many SR houses have used long front darts. Huntsman has it from time to time (their 1 button suits usually have it), Kilgour also has them, and one is hard pressed to find a Henry Poole without the foreparts cut this way. It also pops up on a multitude of off-Row bespoke suits.

Tim W said...

Thanks so much for sharing these Fairbanks photos. My great grandfather made these suits for Fairbanks while he owned Stovel & Mason. Bumped into this page trying to find examples of his work. Cheers.