Thursday, August 25, 2011

Parisian bespoke: Francesco Smalto

An example of the Smalto cut with the distinctive "cran necker" notch lapel:

Noblesse Oct 2008 - Smalto suit

Thanks to Tutto Fatto a Mano for this:

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Update: Men of the Cloth documentary

Last year I wrote about Vicki Vasilopoulos' effort to complete a documentary on three Italian tailors. Recently she launched a crowdfunding initiative on Indiegogo to secure funds to finish editing the film. The goal is to finish in time to submit to upcoming film festivals.



If you love men's clothing, now is your chance to bring an important documentary closer to the finish line.

Sunday, August 07, 2011

NYC Chelsea style: Behavior

Last Friday, I dropped by the opening reception for Behavior, a new New York City menswear store in Chelsea focused on emerging designers.



Much of the store featured the autumn collection of Woo Young Mi, a Korean designer. In particular, I liked her outerwear which are contemporary takes on familiar standbys like the pea coat and trench coat.




The coats appear to be well-constructed RTW and, interestingly, made in Korea, which has now developed a high-end clothing industry for export.

Roman style: Jaja Camiceria

When I visited Rome a couple of months ago, I spent a couple of hours wandering in the neighborhood in front of the Spanish Steps along via Babuino, Margutta, Frattina and Condotti.

On via Belsiana, I noticed a small shirtmaking shop called Jaja Shirts and stepped inside. There I chatted with the proprietor Giuseppe Rossi, who described their workshop, history and offering. Bespoke shirts start at 180 euros. The first shirt requires one fitting (which is possible to do the following day) and is then finished in 20 days.

They carry shirtings by Riva (Rossi showed some very nice voiles and softer lighter Oxford shirtings), Reiser and Bonfanti. His Roman clients order plenty of voile, which he noted should be hand washed. The shirts feature hand sewn buttonholes and, as an option, extremely fine hand embroidery of the owner's initials (monogramming).

Jaja Camiceria shirtings

They also make custom pajamas for 160 euros. Rossi said he took over the business from his parents and that they've been in the same location for 40 years.

Jaja Camiceria G. Rossi

Jaja Camiceria
Via Belsiana 7a
Tel +39 06 679 2160

Friday, August 05, 2011

Made in America: Leather goods and accessories

Being in the market for a new briefcase, I did a bit of research and came across eight leather goods makers based in the US, ranging from individual artisan to small factories. A couple have recently launched, reflecting continuing interest in heritage brands and made in America. I might be missing a few. If so, let me know.

Custom Hide


Narragansett Leathers - custom briefcases and made-to-measure leather belts



Lotuff & Clegg


J.W. Hulme


Billykirk


M&W Traveler


Glaser Designs


Walden Bags


Additional links
- Styleforum thread on Narragansett Leathers
- Styleforum briefcase thread