Saturday, August 02, 2008

The American clothier: Martin Greenfield, Adrian Jules, Jack Taylor

The clothier is an interesting animal, commonly encountered in mid-sized and large American cities. He serves a useful purpose I think. The clothier occupies that middle position between a trained tailor and a pure salesman on the retail floor. Given enough experience and a good eye, he is well positioned to dispense advice and serve as the face for a true bespoke and/or a made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring business. Chances are he will be a member of the Custom Tailors & Designers Association of America.

Martin Greenfield in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

This is a recent documentary on the remarkable story and background of Martin Greenfield and GGG Clothiers.

John Vanderbrook of Adrian Jules in Rochester, NY

At 3:33 in the video clip, Vanderbrook discusses the pattern cutting method at Adrian Jules. Notice the hybrid use of a human to draft the pattern, a CAD system to store, modify and print out customer patterns and a human to cut the cloth on the pattern. If I am not mistaken, this is the same hybrid approach Nedo Bellucci Napoli uses.

Jack Taylor of Beverly Hills
The documentary Jack Taylor of Beverly Hills premiered a couple of years ago at the Santa Barbara Film Festival but I have yet to find a clip of it online. In lieu of that, here is a YouTube clip of the opinionated Mr. Taylor. Incidentally, similar to Greenfield, Taylor also got started in the clothing business by working at GGG Clothiers.

Update: It appears the filmmakers of Jack Taylor of Beverly Hills have a new website with three video clips and stills from the documentary.

Additional links
- Styleforum thread on a MTM fitting at Martin Greenfield
- Custom Tailors & Designers Association of America