Sunday, June 26, 2011

British style: Tommy Nutter

When I visited Maurice Sedwell on Savile Row in May, I had a very pleasant chat with Mr. Ramroop and senior cutter Davide Taub (whom I had met earlier when he was working at Edward Sexton).

One of the things Davide recommended was checking out the Tommy Nutter exhibition at the Fashion & Textile Museum in London. I certainly intend to do that the next time I'm in London.

Additional links
- SF thread on Nutter
- Fashion & Textile Museum link to exhibition
- Londonist preview of Nutter exhibition

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

More Neapolitan tailoring in the news

This is an overdue roundup of things Neapolitan I've come across on the web:
And thanks to fellow blogger Hugo of Parisian Gentleman for this find:

O'MAST from Kid Dandy on Vimeo.

Additional links
- Styleforum thread on Neapolitan documentary

Sunday, June 12, 2011

A time-lapse view of the bespoke cutting process

London bespoke tailor Thom Sweeney has a neat time-lapse view of the pattern tracing and cutting process on its website.

Note there is background music, which can be turned off after the sequence starts (the music button is on the left of the screen).

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Style icon: Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915-2011)

As far as I know, Mr. Fermor has never been nominated as a "style icon" although he has been described as "a cross between Indiana Jones, James Bond and Graham Greene." But Fermor's passing away makes clear, to me at any rate, why this superb, idiosyncratic writer of travels and journeys should rank highly in the the world of men's style.

Fermor led a fascinating life in the midst of a raging world war and trekking across continents, a perfect embodiment of Paul Claudel's assertion that “Intelligence is nothing without delight.” He was a wonderfully lyrical writer, a prodigy with languages, a free spirit abounding with “leventeia”. As Artemis Cooper of The Independent describes, “A quality prized in Greece, leventeia indicates high spirits, humour, quickness of mind and action, charm, generosity, the love of living dangerously and a readiness for anything.”

Fermor's sense of style was refreshingly organic to his person, and, quite likely, simply inseparable from the life he lived. A fitting lesson on style.

Additional links
- New York Times obituary
- The Telegraph's 2008 essay and interview of Fermor
- An admirer's blog dedicated to Fermor

Friday, June 10, 2011

London visit

I passed through London a couple of weeks ago and took some shots below of Savile Row, St. George Street and Jermyn Street.

While in London, I dropped off a pair of Ralph Lauren Purple Label monkstraps for refurbishment at Edward Green. As I noted in my Twitter/Facebook feed, refurbishment is now 165 GBP plus 80 GBP shipping to the US.

I also stopped by the Crockett & Jones shoe shop in Burlington Arcade and learned C&J offer a made-to-measure belt service for 165 GBP. The process takes 8 weeks and belts are available in 3 widths (32, 35, 40mm), with a selection of 5-6 nickel and brass buckles as well as leather swatches.

Stowers Bespoke

Denman & Goddard
Denman & Goddard

Benson & Clegg
Benson & Clegg

Bates Hats
Bates Hats

New & Lingwood
New & Lingwood

New & Lingwood

New & Lingwood

New & Lingwood

Monday, June 06, 2011

Casual shorts: Orlebar Brown

For the past six months I've been looking for a thoughtfully designed pair of casual shorts suitable for both dry and wet sports and indoor and outdoor activities. In particular, a pair of casual shorts with a zipper, side and back pockets, trim fitting, available in multiple waist sizes and colors. In other words, something more versatile than the typical athletic shorts, which functions for one purpose only, usually lacks a few of the features described above, and often comes in just one color (i.e. black).

My search for this casual sport short had not been very successful until recently when I was notified of a new line of 'bridge' shorts by Orlebar Brown, a British sportswear brand. They offer both swim shorts and sport shorts which hit all of the features described above.

I have not yet had a chance to test drive the Orlebar Brown shorts but they certainly appear to be a significant cut above the average sports or athletic shorts in terms of construction and material quality (check the video below). Instead of just one or two colors, the Setter swim shorts come in an array of 19 different colors (6 for the Affen sport shorts). In terms of fit, shorts are made in specific sizes (i.e. 28, 30, 32, etc) and 3 different inseam lengths.

I also like the engraved zippers and side fasteners, which speak to an extra level of attention to detail.

Additional links
- An amusing New York Times piece on swim shorts that appeared after I wrote my entry above

Sunday, June 05, 2011

Bespoke shoemaker in Los Angeles: Raul Ojeda, Willie's Shoe Service

This is a nice find from the AskAndy forum, a bespoke shoemaker in Los Angeles named Raul Ojeda who runs Willie's Shoe Service. Bespoke shoes start at $1,600. Here's the original thread with photos.