Thursday, October 20, 2011

New (re)launches: Nedo Bellucci and Maxton Men

Nedo Bellucci. I wrote about Nedo Bellucci back in 2007 before the Neapolitan tailoring craze began to froth over on the online discussion forums. He's moved into a new space at 4 W 37th St with even more exciting plans for expansion in the future.

Maxton Men. A colleague of mine I met in Los Angeles has soft launched a new men's accessories site. Looks very promising. If Mr. Porter is the men's clothing/accessories site for the well-heeled 1 percent of the male population, you could say Maxton Men is the site for the other 99 percent of us. When you visit, take advantage of the discount code SLEEVEHEAD good for 15% off until November 10th.

M5 press event: Nigel Cabourn, C.P. Company, Boglioli, Duvetica

Last night I attended a viewing of the 2012 S/S collections for these four RTW brands, all of which are Italian brands with the exception of Cabourn.

Duvetica. I really liked their windbreakers in ultralight technical fabrics lined in chambray. Not an ordinary windbreaker but with extra attention paid to certain detailing such as the zippers and the dyeing process. Available through Saks in the US.

C.P. Company. I looked at their military and nautical lines and saw a terrific moss green 4 pocket barn jacket (the Campionario model). The company is also collaborating with Jaeger-LeCoultre to produce a modified goggle jacket featuring a translucent panel above the wrist area specifically designed for the JLC Reverso watch. I also learned that the owner of CP maintains an archive of 40,000 pieces from their collections since the early 70s and elsewhere. My idea of a mini-vacation would be to spend a day or two perusing that archive.

Boglioli. Very appealing spring/summer jackets with the familiar Neapolitan-inspired construction such as manica camicia shoulders and unlined interiors. They also had a nice line of loose-weave scarves. Available through Barney's in New York.

Nigel Cabourn. I profiled Cabourn in an earlier blogpost. As usual, he has come up with one of a kind pieces. These include: a light green 4 button Tenzing cotton jacket, a dipped wax nylon windbreaker with a "wet" hand (kind of the Super 150s version of the usual waxed cotton variety), a collaboration with German knitted jersey specialists Merz bei Schwanen and their Mackintosh collaboration. Available through Barney's and Opening Ceremony in New York.

I should also mention the featured band - Class Actress. If you love electronic pop and/or 80s music, check them out on iTunes (Terminally Chill and Keep You are my favorite tracks). Thanks to Leslie and Brittany for inviting and walking me through the collections.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Style icon: Douglas Fairbanks, Jr.

Belatedly, I learned of the recent auction of the Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. estate. He was the only son of Fairbanks, Sr., who himself was was one of the first Hollywood moguls and founders of the modern film industry. Doyle New York was retained to run the auction on September 13. Below is a selection of Fairbanks, Jr.'s clothing-related items that were sold.

Fairbanks, Jr. owned quite an impressive wardrobe including John Lobb shoes, Maxwell boots, Huntsman jackets and overcoats, Lock hats, Stovel & Mason jackets, among other things.

Lock hats

Maxwell suede derbies

John Lobb semi-brogue

Maxwell riding boots
Huntsman double-breasted overcoat (1970)

Stovel & Mason greatcoat

Huntsman sports coat (1969)

Stovel & Mason sports coat (1973)
I think my favorite piece is the Huntsman overcoat. The auction provided these measurements of the overcoat:
  • Length of shoulders from seam to seam: 19 inches
  • Sleeve length: 24 1/2 inches
  • Shoulder length from seam to collar: 7 inches
  • Length of back: 42 inches
Also, take a closer look at the Stovel & Mason sports coat. Notice anything familiar on the jacket front construction? It has a front dart starting from the chest extending all the way down to the bottom of the hem. Today this is considered a hallmark of Neapolitan tailoring but apparently Savile Row is (or was) no stranger to this practice.

Saturday, October 01, 2011

Wish list: Chukka boot

I've had my eye on the Paul Stuart Forrest chukka boot in chestnut brown. Rather than featuring the standard lace-up, it is constructed as an interesting monk strap variation.