Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Being a modern gentleman

Designer Tom Ford recently posted five guidelines on being a modern gentleman. I have to say that he pretty much is spot on in my view.

Depending on the circumstances, I might bend rule no. 5 (no shorts in the city), esp. if one is in the city and going to the gym or playing a game of tennis. But everything else I wholeheartedly agree with - the emphasis on manners, self-application (i.e. work) and, perhaps most importantly, presenting oneself well as a sign of respect (not as self-indulgence).

Sunday, March 13, 2011

A grand tour of British heritage menswear and makes

Trends do exist. Among those is the center stage positioning of British heritage menswear and manufacture in the last 18 months or so. Last year I wrote an entry on UK heritage menswear and designing an English sartorial vacation.

Likewise, the observant folks at Esquire felt it was time to put the spotlight back on British heritage and went about capturing the look and feel in the summer of 2010. Below is the first of a series of visits to English and Scottish mills and makers including William Lockie (cashmere), textile mill Reid & Taylor, outerwear brand Mackintosh, Sunspel (men's underwear), Ettinger (leather goods), John Smedley (knitwear).

William Lockie, Reid & Taylor

Todd & Duncan, Johnston's of Elgin

Garynahine Harris Tweed, Breanish Tweed, Luskentyre Harris Tweed

Corgi, Fox Brothers

Enjoy the fantastic stories and individuals featured.

Additional links
- Styleforum thread on Esquire videos

Monday, March 07, 2011

Bespoke updates: Vienna and NYC

Viennese bespoke has hit the mainstream press. Thanks to an alert Styleforum reader, I came across this New York Times article on bespoke tailor Knize, shoemaker Scheer and milliner Mühlbauer. In 2005, I began writing about Knize and have updated with additional posts (see below).

I also recently visited Jon Green's bespoke shop on the Upper East Side in NYC and looked at some of the suits and jackets he's made for clients. Mr. Green was gracious enough to take me through the studio and workshop, walking through the tailoring details and finished garments. He now has a tailor on the premise, who can modify the key elements like shoulder and chest construction. Very nice looking jackets in the classic Anglo-American silhouette.

Additional links
- Sleevehead posts on Knize, Niedersuesz, Scheer and Viennese bespoke